Monday, May 18, 2015

Do it Yourself Automotive Glass Replacement

Do it Yourself Automotive Glass Replacement

Replacing automobile glass is not a complicated procedure, but it can take a little unexpected muscle. When removing and installing glass panels, be sure to account for the weight and cumbersome nature of each piece. After all, it is glass and one slip and its off to the auto supply dealer to get a new piece. Also, replace glass panels with glass specifically cut and shaped for your car. There is no safe and accurate way to cut glass down to size or make it larger to fill the gap.

Doors

    Replacing door windows means taking the door apart to access the lift mechanism. This work is done best with the window about half way up; too low and you have to lift the glass out and put new glass in the entire depth of the door. All the way up and the fasteners may be inaccessible behind the door frame.

    Disassemble the door by removing all the exterior screws attaching the door panel. There are screws underneath the armrest and around the exterior door edge. If your car has manual windows, remove the window crank handle. The door panel will also have a variety of clips attaching the panel to the door frame. Unfasten them all, but do not force the door panel. If there is any resistance, check for hidden fasteners.

    Once the door panel is off the assembly attaching the window to the lift mechanism is visible. Remove all the fasteners from the attachment bracket and lift the window out of the car. If the glass is curved, follow the curve while lifting.

    If necessary, transfer the bracket to the new glass. Glass door windows for some cars have the bracket attached. Lower the glass into the door and attach to the lift mechanism. Reassemble the door following the reverse steps you used for assembly.

Windshield

    Replacing the windshield means first removing the weather stripping around the edge. If the rear view mirror is attached you can disconnect it before removing the window. A special tool (available at auto supply stores) is used to pry the stripping from its groove. Once the weather stripping is removed the glass will lift out. Remember, though, it is a very heavy piece. Installing the new glass means positioning it in place and then inserting the weather stripping into its sealing groove. Just like with the car door, if your vehicle has a bracket for the rearview mirror, the replacement glass from the factory will have the bracket already attached.

Side Windows

    Windows around cargo areas of SUVs of the back window of sedans are removed and installed with a procedure identical to the windshield. Just be careful with side cargo area window -- there is no hood or trunk to rest the panel when it is unfastened from the car. If necessary, get a second or maybe third set of hands to avoid a large piece of glass hitting the ground!

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Sunday, May 17, 2015

How to Remove Brake Shoes From a Buick Century

How to Remove Brake Shoes From a Buick Century

The Buick Century was reintroduced as a full-size model in the early 1970s by GM. In 1981 it was redesigned as a front-wheel drive model and downsized a little, featuring front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Later versions were available with rear disc brakes as well. Rear drum brakes incorporate brake shoes that extend outward to contact the interior surface of the drums. Because rear drum brakes only provide about 25 percent of the braking power to the Century, the rear shoes can be replaced less frequently than the front pads.

Instructions

    1

    Place a wheel block in front of the Buick Century on a flat, hard surface. Do not apply the emergency brake, or you will not be able to remove the rear drums

    2

    Lift the Century with a suitable vehicle jack and then support it on jack stands. Remove the rear wheel nuts and wheels.

    3

    Remove the rear drums. If necessary, remove the rear rubber plug located on the back plate by prying it out of position with a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver to push the adjuster actuator out of position, and use a brake spoon adjuster tool to turn the brake shoes inward, away from the drum. If the drum is stuck to the hub, then spray penetrating lubricant around the hub and drum pilot hole. Strike the flat face of the drum with a hammer until it breaks free from the hub.

    4

    Use the brake shoe spanner pliers to remove the actuator spring from the adjuster lever.

    5

    Lift the end of the W-shaped retractor spring from the adjuster shoe assembly. Insert the hook end of the brake shoe spanner pliers between the retractor spring and the shoe. Pry slightly to remove the end of the spring from the retaining hole in the plate of the shoe.

    6

    Pry the other end of the retractor spring toward the axle, with the flat end of the brake shoe spanner pliers, until the spring snaps off the shoe plate.

    7

    Remove one brake shoe and the adjuster mechanism.

    8

    Disconnect the parking brake lever from the shoe it is attached to. Unless youre replacing the parking brake lever, however, do not remove the other end of it from the cable.

    9

    Use the brake shoe spanner pliers to lift the end of the retractor spring from the adjuster shoe assembly. Use the hook end of the pliers to wedge between the retractor spring and the shoe plate. Pry outward to remove the spring end from the hole in the shoe plate. Pry the end of the retractor spring toward the axle with the flat end of the pliers until the spring snaps down off the shoe plate.

    10

    Remove the remaining brake shoe in the same manner.

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Saturday, May 16, 2015

How to Fix the Window on a Mitsubishi Endeavor

How to Fix the Window on a Mitsubishi Endeavor

Unforeseen repairs for your vehicle can be a stressor, but you can repair one type of damage without letting it get to you. Cracks along the windows of your Mitsubishi Endeavor can occur for any reason. But you can turn this into a do-it-yourself job with the proper tools and a little time.

Instructions

    1

    Combine soap and water to make your cleaning solution. Wash the window to remove as much dirt as possible.

    2

    Remove glass from within the cracks. With your safety goggles on, use the corner of the razor blade to pick the pieces out. A clean surface will produce the best repair.

    3

    Attach the suction stabilizer to the window with the damage directly underneath the suction cup.

    4

    Put the plastic injector into the injector port on the stabilizer, and then put the resin tube into the injector. Once in place, remove the injector. This will allow the suction to begin, pulling the resin out of the tube and into the damage for repair.

    5

    Take the stabilizer off the window. Prepare a few strips of curing film by cutting them down to size. Place them over the resin and pull them off when the resin has dried.

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Friday, May 15, 2015

Problems After Windshield Replacement in a 2008 Lexus ES350

A windshield replacement is routine to those who replace hundreds of them each week, but the Lexus ES350 is not routine. Lexus ES350 style and power requires service technicians, certified by the Lexus Commitment to Perfection program, at the Lexus dealership. Lexus ES350 navigation integrates real-time weather conditions into its sensors and intelligence. The weather sensor on the windshield is calibrated to the Lexus windshield, and it activates the windshield wipers.

Upper Windshield Ticking Sound

    The creak, rattle or ticking sound from the top of the windshield might be because of stoppers bonded to the windshield. The Lexus ES350 has two stoppers at the top of the windshield. If the windshield was installed by a Lexus dealer, the repair is covered by a 48-month or 50,000-mile warranty. Some Lexus-supplied tools are better suited to replace a Lexus windshield, even though a generic windshield salesperson might have offered you a cheaper solution. Lexus luxury is partially because of the quality of the Lexus surface materials, the glaze, the sun visors or the windshield wipers. Applying too much pressure to the sun visors or the headliner, which holds them, will permanently crease the surface material. Both sun visors and garnishes must be lowered to gain access to the windshield stoppers. The stoppers are inside the passenger compartment near the metal roof opening. The tip of the plastic stopper needs to be cut off. The vehicle should be test-driven to ensure elimination of the noise before reassembling the windshield and sun visors.

Lower Windshield Ticking Noise

    The creak, rattle or ticking sound from the bottom of the Lexus ES350 windshield might be because of retainers bonded to the lower windshield. The Lexus ES350 has two retainers at the lower edge of the windshield. Some vehicles have only one retainer at the bottom of the windshield. If the windshield was installed by a Lexus dealer, the repair is covered by a 48-month or 50,000-mile warranty. The retainers, at the bottom of the windshield, are under the ventilator cover. The retainers are inside the car roughly 6 inches from the bottom of the windshield. The retainers are attached to the back of the windshield with double-sided cushioned tape. A mini-hacksaw with a fine-tooth 10-inch blade is required to cut the pin portion off of the retainer. Specialized Lexus tools are recommended for Lexus repairs. The dealer will test drive the car before installing the ventilator cover.

Rain Sensing Windshield Wipers Do Not Work

    Lexus ES350 windshield wipers turn on in response to rain on the windshield. Lexus rain sensors are based on the reflection of an infrared light beam on the windshield from the inside of the vehicle. The light is diminished if the glass is wet because less infrared light reaches the rain sensor. The windshield wipers turn on at a speed proportional to the amount of light received by the rain sensor. The rain sensor requires a specific Lexus windshield because the sensor uses the depth of the windshield in its calculations of the volume of rain on the windshield. The rain sensor must be attached precisely to the windshield to function properly.

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Thursday, May 14, 2015

How to Replace the Brake Pads on a 2004 Honda

Replacing a set of brake pads on your 2004 Honda is not hard to do. Doing the project yourself will save you a lot of money in labor costs at the repair shop. Brake pads wear because they use friction to slow and stop your Honda. The brake pads squeeze the rotor between them when you depress the brake pedal. You should change the brake pads when they reach the recommended minimum thickness, or the repair will become more expensive as the rivets from the brake pads begin to cut grooves into the rotors.

Instructions

    1

    Open the engine compartment and remove most of the brake fluid from the brake master cylinder with a turkey baster. The master cylinder is on the back wall of the engine compartment on the drivers side of the car. Put the fluid into the drain pan for later recycling.

    2

    Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Raise the Honda with an automobile jack. Place jack stands under the car near the jacking points and raise them to the frame. Loosen the lug nuts on one of the wheels with a lug wrench then take the wheel off the car.

    3

    Remove the bolt holding the brake hose to the bracket with a wrench. Remove the locking bolt from the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper up and off the wheel assembly. Pull the brake pads and shims out of the brake caliper. Pull the old caliper retaining clips off the caliper.

    4

    Insert the new brake pad retaining clips into the caliper. Place the brake pads into the caliper then place the shims behind the brake pads. Pivot the caliper down onto the wheel assembly. Tighten the retaining bolt with the socket and ratchet.

    5

    Remount the wheel onto the Honda and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Repeat this process on the other wheel then remove the jack stands from under the Honda and lower it to the ground. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder if necessary. Pump the brake pedal several times until the pedal is firm to seat the brake pads onto the rotors.

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Wednesday, May 13, 2015

How to Change the Front Brakes on a Corsica

The Chevy Corsica premiered in late 1987 as a 1988 model. It was related to the Chevy Beretta, but was more of a family sedan with four doors. The Corsica featured front disc brakes and there was a slight design change in the calipers and pads in the second generation of the vehicle in 1992 until GM Motors stopped production on the vehicle in 1996. No matter what year, the procedure to replace the front brakes is fairly similar.

Instructions

    1

    Remove half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir in the engine compartment using a clean brake fluid baster. Dispose of the fluid safely--its highly toxic.

    2

    Apply the parking brake of the Corsica, which should be on a flat, hard surface.

    3

    Loosen the front lug nuts with a breaker bar and lug socket and then lift the vehicle with a lifting jack. Support the Corsica onto jack stands, placed on the front frame rails.

    4

    Remove the lug nuts and then remove the tires.

    5

    Compress the caliper piston on one side. On 1988-1991 Corsicas, use a 12-inch pair of adjustable channel locks. Adjust the pliers over the inboard brake shoe tab and the inboard caliper housing so that the caliper piston bottoms in its bore. On 1992-1996 models, install a large C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and against the back of the outboard shoe. Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the piston is fully compressed inside the caliper bore.

    6

    Remove the caliper mounting bolts and sleeve assemblies using the ratchet with a 3/8-inch male hex-head socket. Remove the caliper and hang it from the coil spring with a wire hook. A metal coat hanger can be bent to make a makeshift hook to support the caliper. On 1988 to 1991 models, the outboard pad will drop from the caliper upon removal.

    7

    Remove the outboard pad from the caliper on 1992 to 1996 models by prying off the metal retaining clips with a small pry bar. On all year models, pull the inboard pad out of the caliper piston. It is retained by a metal clip on the backing plate of the pad pressed inside the piston.

    8

    Remove the rotor if youre replacing the rotors. A couple of stiff whacks from behind with a hammer will remove a stubborn rotor stuck to the wheel hub, if necessary.

    9

    With a stiff-bristled wire brush, clean the upper and lower flat surfaces of the knuckle that mate with the caliper. After they are cleaned, apply a light coat of anti-seize compound on them.

    10

    Spray the replacement rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove the anti-rust coating. Spray front and back and, with a clean shop rag, wipe off the coating and spray. Place the rotor onto the hub and apply a lug nut onto one of the studs farthest away from the caliper placement. This will hold the rotor in place.

    11

    Insert the inboard pad into the caliper piston by pushing it into the piston until the retaining clip holds it in place. Place the outboard pad onto the caliper and hold it in place on the first generation Corsica. On the second generation Corsica, hook the metal retaining clips onto the outboard caliper housing and align the clips to the indents on the housing.

    12

    Unhook the caliper and place over the rotor, making sure you have not twisted the brake hose. Apply a liberal coat of anti-seize compound to the smooth sleeves of the caliper bolt and sleeve assemblies. Align them into their respective holes in the rubber bushings and tighten them with the ratchet and hex-head socket.

    13

    Replace the tire and lug nuts and tighten the nuts as snugly as you can with the vehicle suspended. Repeat Steps 5-13 for the other front brakes.

    14

    Lower the Corsica to the ground and then torque the lug nuts at 100-foot pounds with the torque wrench and the lug nut socket.

    15

    Be sure the master cylinder cap snapped in place securely and then pump the brake pedal of the Corsica until it feels firm. Remove the master cylinder cover again and add brake fluid if necessary. Only add new brake fluid.

    16

    Release the parking brake and test drive.

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Tuesday, May 12, 2015

How to Fix a Cracked Windshield on a Honda

Fixing a cracked windshield is unfortunately not the easiest task in the world. Hondas are known as some of the most reliable automobiles on the market, and yet they are not immune to cracked windshields. A stray rock or a stress fracture during the winter months can cause a crack in your windshield. If the crack is small enough, some companies can fix it by using a special resin and UV curing light. However, if the crack is more than 1 inch in length, the only permanent solution is to replace the windshield.

Instructions

    1

    Pry the plastic trim molding from the windshield. Youll need to use a flat-tip screwdriver or a windshield molding removal tool. Wedge the tool under the trim and molding, and pry up to remove them.

    2

    Cut the urethane molding that holds the windshield to the frame of the Honda.

    3

    Pull the windshield off the Honda.

    4

    Clean the pinch-weld area and the frame of the Honda. Trim all the excess urethane down to about 3 millimeters in length. Use a brush and water to clean off any debris.

    5

    Slide the molding and trim back onto the new windshield.

    6

    Apply the urethane primer to the frit band on the new windshield. This is the black band that goes around the outside of the windshield.

    7

    Apply a bead of urethane to the frame of the Honda. Use the old urethane bead as a guide.

    8

    Align the top, bottom, and sides of the windshield to the frame on the Honda, and press the windshield into place.

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Monday, May 11, 2015

Peugeot 308 Sedan

Peugeot 3o8 Sedan [by Dongfeng Peugeot of China] was launched on Jan 25th...
Peugeot-408
... unfortunately in China it is called Peugeot 4o8.
308Sedan-f
Looks more civilised front design than the hatch and not too bad rear end too...
308sedan-r
Obviously this car is more spacious than 407, especially for shoulders and leg rooms for rear passengers.


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Saturday, May 9, 2015

THE Test for the Way I Drive Part 1

[updated Oct 26th 07:29am]

Bangi, October 25th, Just came back from another weekend trip [this time was 900+km only - to and fro Penang including kawasan2 yg sewaktu dengannya] with a bunch of die-hard and seasoned Peugeot lovers. We drove the car w/o worrying on fuel consumptions and speed limits [and speed traps] but SAFETY for passengers, pedestrian and other road users was always our FIRST priority.

Before crossing over to the Island we stopped over at Juru Autocity to meet Behcw to see and feel his 308 performance on P-tronic Tuning Chip, he also gave us some useful tips on how the connections were done. Thanks Beh. We were impressed, but do I need one?In Penang, we joined another group from PCM including its president, abang.K
This time around I had an opportunity to carry out yet another important test for the stock [unmodded] 1.6 liter EP6-DT prince engine running on RON95.

The burning FAQ -"What is the maximum speed of an un-modded Peugeot 308Turbo on RON95?" - The following are the answers;

From Garmin GPS: 210km/hr
Note: the moving average speed has been brought down due to the 2-day traffic crawl, otherwise it should be around 170km/hr avg. on PLUS. It took about similar number of hours [five hours KL-Penang-KL] on PLUS and crawling in Georgetown and Butterworth!

From Datalogger: 212km/hr

Speedometer/Techometer Reading: 214km/hr
I dont exactly know which is the most accurate but all readings are NOT LESS than 210km/hr and it was on RON95!

[Expecting better performance from those who have installed P-tronic Tuning Box and running on RON97 fuel]


I had established an approximation on RON95 fuel consumption [at current price of RM1.80/liter] for Peugeot 308Turbo as:

sen/km = Speed in kph/10 [with +- 10% margin for steady speeds between 100kph~200kph]
e.g
@110kph:10.0~12.0 sen per km.
@150kph: 13.5~16.5 sen per km.
@200kph: 18.0~22.0 sen per km.


Frequently Visited Pages:
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Friday, May 8, 2015

myRed cars Rear End Kena Hantam

Within the last 30 days whenever I left myPeugeot 308 at home, my other cars kena hantam belakang punya side. Co-incidentally both accidents happened in the morning at parking lots when nobody was in the car. Both cars are red in color! Why aa?? Any feng-shui master? I need ur advice lah. Fortunately those responsible for the accidents did not run away. They paid.
P1030633
Badly damaged but the neighbouring panels intact. Im sure Jap cars are not strong enough to withstand such impact. The car was displaced about 1m sideways during the collision.

BTW, Thanks God, I changed myPeugeot 308 color from Babylon-RED to Lunar-Mist otherwise Im worrying what will happen next.


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Thursday, May 7, 2015

How to Bleed a 2000 Blazer Master Cylinder

How to Bleed a 2000 Blazer Master Cylinder

The 2001 Chevy Blazer came equipped with a Kelsey-Hayes 4WAL (four wheel anti-lock) brake system. Unlike other Chevy vehicles, this system is non-integral to the standard brake system and the master cylinder is separate from the ABS modulator valve assembly. When replacing the master cylinder in this truck, air trapped in the master cylinder must be removed before the master cylinder is replaced; no provision is made for removing air trapped in the master cylinder by cycling the modulator valve assembly, as is the case in systems like the Delphi 6.

Instructions

    1

    Secure the new master cylinder into a bench vise by clamping the mounting flange into the vise. Position the master cylinder so that the piston in the back of the cylinder bore is facing you. Attach the plastic fittings, supplied in the bench bleeding kit that comes with the master cylinder, to the threaded line openings in the side of the master cylinder. Push the clear plastic hoses, also supplied in the bleeding kit, onto the plastic fittings and secure them so they are inside the master cylinder reservoir, and below fluid level.

    2

    Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh brake fluid. Slowly depress the piston in the back of the master cylinder completely into the master cylinder, using a large screwdriver. Slowly release the piston while observing the fluid in the clear plastic hoses. Repeat this process until the fluid, circulating in the clear plastic hoses, contains no large air bubbles.

    3

    Top off the fluid level in the master cylinder and install the lid on the reservoir. Remove the clear plastic hoses and place the small rubber caps, supplied in the bleeding kit, on the bleeding fittings in place of the clear plastic hoses.

    4

    Carry the master cylinder to the truck and carefully and install it in the truck. Slide the master cylinder onto the two studs that attach it to the power brake booster, and secure it with the two 15-mm retaining nuts. Remove the plastic bleeder fittings, and screw the line fittings into the side of the master cylinder in their place. Tighten the lines securely with a line wrench.

    5

    Loosen the front brake line on the master cylinder. Have a helper push the brake pedal and hold it down, while you close the line. As you so, you will notice air escaping from the line as you loosen the fitting. Repeat this process until the fluid being pushed out of the line, when the pedal is pushed down, is free of air. Perform the same procedure on the rear brake line on the master cylinder. It may take several attempts to remove all of the air from the lines. Check the level of the fluid in the master cylinder and top it off with fresh fluid as the level drops below the "Min" mark on the reservoir.

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Wednesday, May 6, 2015

How to Replace a Caliper in a Plymouth Voyager

If you need to replace parts like a brake caliper in a Plymouth Voyager, you might need to check parts for the Chrysler minivan under the same name. Make sure any replacement parts come from a reputable source and they will work on your Plymouth machine.

Instructions

Remove the Old Caliper

    1

    Lift the front end of the van securely on a jack stand and remove the wheels. The Plymouth Voyager only has calipers on the front brakes, since it uses drum brakes on the rear axle.

    2

    Unscrew the attaching bolt on the brake hose to disconnect it from the caliper. Plug up the line with a small piece of rubber. Toss out the copper washers, as you will need to use new ones upon assembly.

    3

    Disconnect the caliper guide pin bolts securing the caliper to the steering knuckle. Slide the caliper slowly away from the knuckle. Slide the calipers opposite end out from under the knuckles machined abutment.

    4

    Clean the abutment surfaces and lubricate them multipurpose lubricant. Run a mist of water over the surface and use a damp rag to clean them. Never dry clean brake parts because of asbestos risk.

Install the Replacement Caliper

    5

    Place the replacement caliper over the brake pads and rotor. Make sure you dont damage the caliper seals or guide pin bushings from the steering knuckle bosses.

    6

    Install the guide pin bolts and the brake hose to the caliper. Use new washers with the brake hoses fitting bolt.

    7

    Fill the brake master cylinder with fluid. Connect the brake bleeder valve to a container of fluid with a rubber hose and have another person remove air from the system by using the brake pedal.

    8

    Install the wheels back on the van. Attach the lug nuts to half their full torque before lowering the van, then finish tightening them.

    9

    Set the brake pads. Pump the pedal until it feels firm. Test the brakes out on the road.

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Tuesday, May 5, 2015

How to Cool a Hotspot

If u own a 308, most likely u also have a 3G smartphone (or more) with Wi-Fi and...

Probably u might have already been using it as a Wi-Fi hotspot for connecting ur Wi-Fi enabled devices to the Internet. If u havent done so for not knowing ur smartphone capability take a look HERE, no one is peeping, hee....heeeee

There is one problem though. The hotspot can be extremely hot. The heat generated can damage ur precious device during extended use. But dont worry and u dont have to place it in refrigerated glovebox or somewhere out of ur sight. U can make it freezing cold and at the same time u may place it at a strategic location on ur 308 dashboard for normal use too, such as for gps navigation.....

All u need is a smartphone holder that can be fixed onto ur middle aircond vent....
...which u can buy @pasarmalam for +-RM10.00, u may also need an in-car charger because when u turn on the smartphone as a Hotspot and worst still u turn on the gps navigation at the same time, the bugger eats up lots of battery charge, just like ur 308Ts do, hu huu..

Now u can have a cool hotspot in ur 308 to make ur passangers or urselves [if u r x drivin la] enjoy the long trip with iPod Touch, iPad or any other tablets that do not have 3G.If ur rear pasengers are addicted to podcasts they can download and play their favorites on iDevice which can be attached on the back of the front seat...
... and of course I like watching IRC too whenever Im in the backseat....
So, if u wanna buy an iPhone... think again because u can buy much lower-cost iPod Touch or even an iPad [or BOTH, he heeee] at a fraction of the price, and u do not have to get rid of your old faithful 3G SmartPhones.
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Monday, May 4, 2015

RON97 vs RON95 Defining the Moment of Truth

The tests for 0~120km/hr sprint [0~100km/hr inclusive] were carried out at the same place, about the same time but on different dates on different fuels - RON97 vs RON95. Let the graphics speaks for itself. [click on the image to enlarge]

My earlier tests on fuel consumptions and performance also seemed that there was no advantage of using RON97 over RON95 on Peugeot 308 Turbo!

Nevertheless I will perform 400m and 1000m standing tests running on RON97 to compare with the test results running on RON95. Im very skeptical if there will be any significant improvement though.

Ill be switching back to RON95 because Im quite happy with its performance and fuel economy [for my308] unless, otherwise somebody comes up with authentic figures to proof that RON97 is better than RON95 in terms of performance and fuel consumptions [based on controlled or similar condition].

Better in terms of performance and fuel consumptions from Buttdyno test results for Peugeot 308THP running on RON97 vs RON95 found in forums are too good to be true.


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4AGE20V Blacktop Pinout Update

In this image, what Ive update is different between CF-cooling fan relay and ELS1-cooling fan relay. It should be CF is A/C fan relay and ELS1 is radiator fan relay.
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ZZR600 NISSIN brake caliper upgrade

This is a short guide on how to replace the calipers on a zzr 600, from the original TOKICO items to some NISSINs from the honda Fireblade. Mine is an E7 and Im sure it works on all E models. For more info check out www.zzr-international.co.uk

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Sunday, May 3, 2015

You dont have much reason to think about your brake pads until either they start to wear down, start to grab and squeak or, even worse, fail on you. Then you likely want to know more about your brake pads and the options available as you decide what to do to have them replaced.

Really, all you want your brakes to do is work and work in all kinds of weather and temperatures and to work quietly. Noisy brakes are only slightly better than no brakes at all. Also, you dont want your brakes to generate lots of dust to mess up your rims or wheels. All brakes will produce dust as they hit your rotor and stop your car. But the issue of dust is especially important if youve waded into the aftermarket to buy custom rims and wheels and so have money invested. Clean rims mean happy owners.

The materials used to make brake pads have changed over the last few decades. Asbestos pads of course were tied to the health problems that made asbestos an issue in the first place. Semi-metallic brake pads are a current option that is a cheap way to go. Semi-metallic pads are made of strands of steel and, while they do the trick for braking, they also can be noisy and do produce more dust. Also, the metal part of the pad will wear on the rotor faster than other options. Still, semi-metallic pads are frequently selected because of the price.

Ceramic pads have only come on the marketplace since the 1990s but they have advantages that many drivers enjoy. The ceramic models are threaded with copper fibers instead of steel. Ceramic brake pads can work with higher temperatures and dont generate as much dirt and grim. The ceramic materials mean less noise and less wear on the rotor for the long haul. It is also generally accepted that ceramic brake pads last longer than other pads. As a result, ceramic pads in general do cost slightly more than the other options.

Its good to have all this in mind when it comes time to replace your brakes. A little knowledge will give you peace of mind as you make this important decision about your car. Brakes are nothing to fool around with and thats an understatement. You have to have brakes that work. But brakes that arent as noisy or as messy are nice to have as well.

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Z1000 2010 Mod!!

Z1000 2010 Mod!! Video Clips. Duration : 2.75 Mins.





Puig Racing Dark Smoke Windscreen PAZZO Levers EBC Double-H Front Rear Brake Pads Healtech Gear Indicator Pro DS-Series Red Rizoma Naked Mirrors & Adapters Rizoma Conical Handlebar Rizoma Z1000 Clamp Rizoma Grips, Bar Ends, Handlebar Caps Rizoma Stand Support Rizoma Front Rear Fluid Tanks Rizoma Chain Guard Rizoma Frame Plug PowerBronze Rear Hugger Uk Front Wheel Protection Evotech Fender Eliminator Evotech Crash Protectors Evotech Radiator Guard All fluids, and oils change with IPONE performance products NGK Iridium Spark Plugs K&N KA1010 Air Filter Coming soon: Two Brothers Black Series, Two Brothers Juice Box Pro, DID Gold Chain, Driven Gold Sprocket Set, Spiegler Brake Lines, Sato Racing Rear Sets Gold ...



Tags: Z1000, 2010, Kawasaki, Tuning, Pazzo, Levers, EBC, Brake, Healtech, Gear, Indicator, Rizoma, Parts, Mirrors, Adapters, Conical, Handlebar, Clamp, Naked, Bike, streetfighter, Evotech, Radiator, Guard, Crash, Protector, Juicebox, Two, Brothers, Black, Series, Carbon, Exhaust, K&N, IPONE, NGK, Iridium, Spurkplugs, Modified, Monster, Energy, Puig, Fender, Eliminator, mod, racing, motor, sports, extreme, driving, custom, installation, Powerbronze, motorcycle
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Saturday, May 2, 2015

Wraped Up

After the first 2500km inspection myPeugeot 308 is now wraped up and well kept. The Custom made dust cover keeps away stray cats, etc... even parked next to the oldest Peugeot in pocession in DIY-garage behind the house.
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One of the stray cats has been domesticated by my kids. This feline with a pair of beautiful eyes is well behaved now, kecuali apabila di cucuk - samalah dengan 308!
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Driven to myOffice only once or a couple of times in a week, mostly used on weekends and on holiday-trips - last trip was to Bukit Tinggi on April 12th...
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...and the next trip will be to Kelantan on April 24th, "just to keep the motor running while getting rid of the old stock fuel".

|Home|Fuel Consumption|Performance|uncles DIY|Car Size Comparison|
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Power Window Tinting Tips

Power Window Tinting Tips

According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 30,797 United States car crashes ended in a fatality in 2009. Driving with the sun shining directly through the passenger or drivers side windows is annoying and potentially dangerous. Tinting your power windows can help block out glare and UV rays.

Clean

    Dust and dirt can prevent tint from completely sticking to the window. Before applying tint to your power windows, use tinting application fluid and wipe with a lint-free cloth. Clean under the rubber window guards as well. Try to work in a dust-free environment.

Precision

    Cut the tinting sheet so it fits the window exactly. Leave 1/4 inch to 1/16 inch of tinting sheet overlap at the top. This will be covered by the door. Make sure your cutting tool is sharp.

Removing Moisture

    Apply tinting fluid to the window with a squeegee. Use a heating gun or blow dryer to help suck out the moisture after youve applied the tint.

Smooth

    Bubbles are a sign of a shoddy tinting job. Smooth out any bubbles by pushing them toward the edges of the window. Work in a well-lighted area.

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Friday, May 1, 2015

DTUKship for under RM2k

Believe it or not a few of our 308 fellas got DTUK for under RM2000! Ive got no comment but u can find out for urselves what sort of DTUK our friends got. Click HERE.
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How to Repair a Cracked Car Window

How to Repair a Cracked Car Window

Window damage on your vehicle is among the easiest repair jobs. Just because you have some cracks in the auto glass doesnt mean you need professional repair services. A sunny day and a few supplies available at most auto stores are all you need to get the job done.

Instructions

    1

    Park the car in the sun. Wash the window to remove all buildup. A simple solution of detergent and water will do. Use a soft sponge or cloth to wash and dry the window completely.

    2

    Pick out loose pieces of glass from within the crack. Put your goggles on, then turn the razor blade on its edge to flick them out. Be careful not to cut yourself.

    3

    Suction the stabilizer to the window over the damaged areas. Press the suction cup against the window until you can see and feel the suction between both elements.

    4

    Put the tube filled with resin into the injector, then place the injector into the stabilizer.

    5

    Take the injector out so the suction can begin to pull the resin into the cracks, naturally filling them for repair.

    6

    Lift the stabilizer off the window after all of the resin has been drawn out of the tube.

    7

    Place a strip of curing film onto the repaired area. Do not remove the strip until the resin has completely cured.

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How to Align Peugeot 308T Headlight Beams

Light beams should be realigned every time after bulbs replacement to avoid causing a nuisance to other road users . The only tools required are 6mm allen key and 8mm socket wrench c/w ratchet handle.

LH and RH headlamps can be adjusted individually for beam height and L-R alignment.

1. Beam Height Adjustment.
Beam Height Adjustment can done by using a 6mm allen key on the adjuster as shown in the picture.
Turn the allen key either clockwise or counter-clockwise until the desired height is achieved. RH beam should always be lower than LH beam height. Repeat for another headlamp. Finally adjust LH and RH beam height simultaneously by using the remote height adjuster below steering column.

2. Beam Alignment.
Beam alignment adjuster is actually hidden. Must locate where is it first. Even some mechanics at authorised SC who are not familiar with 308 dont know where is it!
Use 8mm socket wrench with a ratchet handle to turn the adjuster clockwise or anti clockwise to align the beam.


Screwing in [turning clockwise] the adjuster will align the beam closer to the car axis.

beams on the wall after realignment
UPDATE: Even though the alignment was done, the light beams are not friendly to other road users because of the glare - worse still after installing HIDs. Finally I installed Projector Lenses to reduce glare and to improve light beam focusing.

| HOME | HID | Osram Nightbreaker | LED | All Light bulbs|| Fuel Consumption | Performance | uncles DIY |
|Car Size Comparison | Motoring Myths | RON95 |
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Thursday, April 30, 2015

2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Brake Pad Installation Guide

2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Brake Pad Installation Guide

The 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 is the 3/4-ton version of the Dodge Ram 1500 (1/2-ton). It was also available in a 1-ton version. This truck always featured front disc brakes which used brake pads. While it was more common for this truck to feature rear drum brakes, it was also available with rear disc brakes. Disc brakes integrate brake calipers, brake rotors and brake pads. When the brake pedal is depressed, the caliper pistons press the pads against the surface of the rotors to slow and stop the vehicle.

Instructions

    1

    Park your Ram 2500 on a level surface substantial enough for lifting and supporting a 3/4-ton truck. Apply the parking brake if youre replacing the front brake pads but do not apply the parking brake if youre replacing the rear brake pads.

    2

    Place a wheel block against the outside tread of a tire on the opposite axle that youre replacing the brake pads on then loosen the lug nuts on the two wheels of the same axle youre replacing the brake pads on using a lug nut wrench. Do not loosen the nuts more than half a turn.

    3

    Lift the axle youre replacing the brake pads on with a 3/4-ton rated jack and support the axle on two 3/4-ton rated jack stands placed under each front lower control arm or under each side of the rear axle, respectively.

    4

    Remove the lug nuts then the tires.

    5

    Place a pry bar into the caliper pad window against the steel plate of the outboard pad and pry the pad against the rotor until the caliper piston compresses enough to loosen the brake pads and caliper.

    6

    Remove the upper and lower caliper bolts using a ratchet and a 3/8-inch hex-head socket bit, then remove the caliper from the rotor and knuckle assembly. Rest the caliper on a milk crate or sturdy box so there is no tension on the brake hose attached to the caliper.

    7

    Use the pry bar to unseat one of the outboard pad retaining springs from the caliper housing then pull the remaining spring of the pad off of the caliper.

    8

    Place a caliper piston reset clamp or a large C-clamp onto the face of the inboard pad and the housing of the caliper and tighten the clamp to fully compress the caliper piston into the caliper.

    9

    Remove the clamp then unseat the inboard caliper brake pad retaining clip from the hollow caliper piston. Use the pry bar if necessary.

    10

    Use a wire brush to scrub off the rust, brake dust and other debris on the sliding surfaces of the caliper and the knuckle, then apply a coat of the silicone brake grease onto the respective surfaces.

    11

    Insert the inboard pad and retaining clip into the hollow caliper piston, making sure the steel plate of the pad is flush against the piston. Set one side of the outboard pads retaining spring onto the outer caliper housing then pivot the pad onto the housing to clip the remaining retaining spring.

    12

    Place the caliper and pad assembly onto the rotor and knuckle assembly and hand-thread the caliper bolts into the caliper. Tighten the bolts with the ratchet and 3/8-inch hex-head socket bit. Repeat the brake pad replacement procedure for the other wheel.

    13

    Replace the tires and lug nuts. Tighten the nuts with the lug nut wrench, applying a star formation until the nuts hold the tires firmly onto the wheel hubs.

    14

    Lower the Ram to the ground then tighten the lug nuts, applying the star pattern with the torque wrench set at 135 foot-pounds and a socket.

    15

    Apply the brake pedal several times until it feels firm then check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. Add brake fluid if necessary. Remove the wheel block, disengage the parking brake (if applicable) then test-drive the truck.

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Catalytic Converter Hazards!

Government auto emissions control legislation mandates that virtually all cars built or sold in the U.S. come equipped with a catalytic converter. A smart device, catalytic converters help to convert dangerous and polluting exhaust gases into less harmful carbon dioxide and water. As helpful of a device that it is, there are some hazards that come with the use of a catalytic converter. Read on to learn what you need to know about your vehicles catalytic converter.

Many consider a catalytic converter to be a godsend. With pollution levels ever climbing, the U.S. government acted to reduce harmful pollutants in a step to clean up the environment. The Environmental Protection Agency was formed by the Nixon Administration and the agency was instrumental in passing the Clean Air Act to help America control pollution. Since 1975 virtually every passenger vehicle has come equipped with a catalytic converter.

As helpful as catalytic converters can be, they can be problematic. Besides failure, which generally goes unnoticed until your vehicle flunks its next inspection, it is the intense heat of the unit that can cause problems.

If you work on your own vehicle, you need to let your car cool down completely before working near the exhaust system. Catalytic converters get very hot, as hot as 1800 degrees, and any burn sustained from touching a hot converter can be very dangerous, even deadly.

Motorists have also learned that a catalytic converter can be a fire hazard. For the past three decades police and fire department reports have indicated that many car fires have been started because a motorist parked their car over dry leaves. Even when the engine is off the hot converter can drop a spark which can ignite leaves underneath. If that happens, your car can be engulfed in mere minutes and destroyed by the conflagration.

There are also hazards that occur to the catalytic converter itself. Because the unit burns at such hot temperatures, catalytic converters can suffer rapid thermal deactivation. Some experts suggest switching to synthetic engine oil to help reduce phosphorous contaminants a known contributor to failure.

No, you cannot legally remove your catalytic converter as you may become subject to stiff fines and penalties. Yes, if your car was built before 1975, none of these concerns matter to ou so enjoy your classic and let her rip without pollution controls holding you back!

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Wednesday, April 29, 2015

1AAuto.com Part 2 Replace Change Service Rear Disc Brakes Ford Explorer Mountaineer 1995-02 Video Clips. Duration : 6.78 Mins.





www.1aauto.com 1A Auto shows you how to save yourself some big money. Replace your own rear brakes. In this video we show you how to replace the rear brakes on a 1998 Ford Explorer. This procedure is the same for any 1995-2001 Ford Explorer, 2001-2002 Sport Trac, and 1997-2001 Mercury Mountaineer



Tags: Installation, instructions, tutorial, install, change, replace, worn, squeaky, fading, old, brake, pads, rotors, rear, ford, mercury, explorer, sport, trac, mountaineer, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002
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Power windows are a convenience feature for lots of vehicles on the road today, and when they go out, it can be pretty inconvenient. Time was, replacing a window regulator was a real pain, but on the 1999-2006 Silverado, the process has become a lot easier. Now, the regulator is on a cable system, and can be pulled out of the door in minutes. In this case, the project vehicle is a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado, but the process is similar for other vehicles.

Instructions

    1

    Place the flathead screwdriver between the lock button and the door panel, then twist the screwdriver to pop out the door lock trim. Repeat this process for the trim around the interior pull handle and the power window switch panel. Unplug the power window switch panel, using your hands.

    2

    Unbolt the door panel from the door, using the 1/4-inch ratchet and socket set. The bolts are in the corner near the armrest, and behind the door lock. Then pull off the interior mirror trim piece with your hands.

    3

    Push the door panel up towards the headliner, using your hands, and then pull the door panel off of the door.

    4

    Plug the power window switch back into the harness on the door and roll down the window to the halfway point. There are two clamps on the window channels that hold the window in place. Unbolt them, using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket, then tilt the back of the window up towards the front of the vehicle and pull the glass out of the door towards the interior, using your hands.

    5

    Unbolt the bolts that secure the window channels to the door, using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Then unbolt the window regulator motor from the door. Unplug the power window regulator motor harness from the door as well. Fold the channels together so that the channels, cables and window regulator motor can fit through the access panel, and pull out the assembly.

    6

    Slide the replacement power window assembly into the door panel and bolt it in place, using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Reinstall the glass in the reverse order of removal, and tighten it down to the regulator, using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket.

    7

    Plug the wiring harness back into the switch panel and test the windows up and down movement. If it binds in any way, adjust the window, or consider reinstalling the assembly, as the cables may be twisted.

    8

    Reassemble the door panel in the reverse order of disassembly.

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Im back now

It has already been almost two months my 308 didnt move. Before getting the car back on road, first thing to do is to renew insurance & road tax and do some minor maintenance.

The car is already 26months OTR. This time around Ill insure the car for RM85k only. Based on insurance calculator, the premium will be RM1,501.97 [@38.3% NCD] .....

Some of the items for 308 I bought at eBay to date:
12v 6A car battery charger
Hi-power 1157 DRL LED
Peugeot Ori F/Brakepads [set of 4]
F/Wiper Blades [set of 2]
Peugeot Sport decal
R/Wiper Blade
Splash Guard Clips [10pcs]
Tyre valve caps [set of 4]
Alloy Wheel Center Caps [set of 4]
Brake Piston Reset Tool
Wheel Bolt Caps - 19mm [20pcs].....
.... yes indeed, I need 19mm bolt caps. Now my 308 uses 19mm instead of std 17mm wheel bolts.

Will update this blog in early May 2011. Thanks for visiting.
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Tuesday, April 28, 2015

New brake line

After absorber removed for servicing purpose, found the brake hose already cracked.



I made a decision to use a custom made hose. Went to a nearby hydraulic shop to made it. It just a straight hydraulic hose with 3000 psi pressure printed on that hose. It also a multi layer hose with steel braided in the middle.

To remove the old hose, I made a mistake by rounded the nut. Then need to removed steel hose to the shop again to replace rounded nut. Unluckily, the original hose cannot be flare. The steel hose broke when try to flared it. Again, new steel hose to replaced that one.



Hopefully, this new setup is worth and last long.

*Unfortunately these type of hose is not suitable for brake line purpose. This hose expend when brake pedal pressed.





posted from Bloggeroid
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GMC 2500 Rear Disc Brake Removal

The rear disc brakes found on a GMC 2500 truck act as a parking brake as well as do some of the daily braking. Over time, these brakes wear down, and the rotors will need to be removed to either get them turned or for a full replacement. Although its a straightforward task, it is different than removing front brake rotors, as it involves a bit of an extra step.

Instructions

    1

    Make sure the parking brake is off. Lift up the rear axle on the truck using the jack and set the axle on the jack stands so that the wheels are off the ground.

    2

    Unbolt the rear brake caliper from the axle using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Lift it off of the rotor, then suspend it from the frame using the bungee cord, making sure the brake line is still slack.

    3

    Grip the rotor with both hands. Twist the rotor slowly while simultaneously pulling it towards you, until it pops off of the axle.

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How to Replace the Front Pads on a Chevy Express Van

The Chevy Express was introduced in the late 90s replacing the G-Series full-size vans. It was available in 1/2-ton, 3/4 ton and 1-ton models, such as the G-Series. Although there was an issue with the front brakes wearing out prematurely, no recall was announced by General Motors to solve the problem. Many believe the front braking system (that compensated 75 percent braking capacity for the van) was inadequately suited for the full-size vehicle. Some aftermarket replacement parts may help solve the problem.

Instructions

    1

    Use a clean hand pump to suck 1/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder of the Express van prior to replacing the brake pads. This will make room for the brake fluid being purged backwards into the master cylinder once the caliper pistons are retracted.

    2

    Lift and support the Express van with a truck jack and suitable weight truck jack stands. Place the jack stands under the front control arms.

    3

    Remove the front center caps and lug nuts using a breaker bar and socket or suitable pneumatic tool. Remove the front wheels.

    4

    Remove the two caliper guide bolts using the ratchet and a suitable socket. Some model Express vans may call for a 3/8-inch Allen wrench socket.

    5

    Pry the caliper and pad assembly off of the rotor with a pry bar or large slotted screwdriver.

    6

    Hang the caliper to the chassis with some wire so it does not damage the rubber brake hose.

    7

    Use the pry bar or slotted screwdriver to unseat the outboard pad from the caliper housing first and then pull the inboard pad from the caliper piston bore.

    8

    Compress the caliper piston using the 6-inch C-clamp and an old pad to anchor the C-clamp against. This will prevent damage to the caliper piston.

    9

    Apply a coating of brake silicone lubricant to the brake pad tabs mating surface on the caliper anchor hardware clips.

    10

    Inspect the rotor for any visual damage such as rust pits, heat or hard spotting (discoloration on the surface plate of the rotor) or cracks. Replace the rotor if necessary but removal of the caliper anchor will be required to do so.

    11

    Install the new brake pads into the caliper. Start with the inboard pad and seat the retaining clip into the caliper piston bore. Finish with the outboard pad and use the pry bar or slotted screwdriver to get the dual retaining clips onto the outboard housing of the caliper.

    12

    Replace the caliper and pad assembly over the rotor. Apply a light coat of silicone brake lubricant to the non-threaded surface of the caliper bolts and align them with their respective holes. Tighten them with the torque wrench and suitable socket to 45-foot pounds.

    13

    Replace the wheels and lug nuts and torque the lug nuts to 135- to 145-foot pounds with the torque wrench and suitable socket.

    14

    Replace the center caps and then lower the Express van. Re-torque the wheels, if necessary, when the van is on the ground before replacing the center caps.

    15

    Pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. This will purge the caliper pistons from the bores and seat the pads in their proper placement. Recheck and add brake fluid to the master cylinder to ensure it is full. Test drive the van for proper braking operation.

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Monday, April 27, 2015

How to Change the Brake Pads on a 2003 Maxima

How to Change the Brake Pads on a 2003 Maxima

The 2003 Nissan Maxima uses brake pads on both the front and rear brakes. The type of calipers and pads used on the front and rear wheels differs, so the method of changing the brake pads is slightly different depending on which end youre working on. In either case, you need to replace either both the front or rear brake pads together. The pads will likely need changing at around 60,000 to 80,000 miles.

Instructions

Accessing the Brake Pads

    1

    Open the cap on the brake master cylinder reservoir and siphon out two thirds of the fluid with an unused turkey baster or syringe bottle. Make sure you know your local laws for disposing of brake fluid.

    2

    Raise the cars front or rear end, support it on jack stands and remove both wheels. Loosening the lug nuts before raising the car will make the wheels easier to remove. Block the front wheels with wheel chocks if youre raising the rear end, and vice versa.

    3

    Wash off each brake assembly using a aerosol brake cleaner and a drip pan for catching the residue.

Removing the Brake Pads

    4

    Depress the front brake calipers piston into the caliper using a C-clamp. On rear calipers, disconnect the parking brake cables clip and unhook the cable from the parking brake lever.

    5

    Remove the calipers lower bolt and pivot the caliper upward on a front caliper, then squeeze and remove the anti-rattle springs from the brake pads. On a rear caliper, remove the upper bolt and pivot the caliper down.

    6

    Remove the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket. Unclip and remove the shims from the pads.

    7

    Remove, clean and inspect the caliper slide pin. Coat it with high-temperature grease and install the pin back in the mounting bracket.

Installation

    8

    Connect the shims to the replacement brake pads and apply an anti-squeal compound to the backs of the shims in semi-circles around the middle.

    9

    Install the inner and outer brake pads in the bracket; the inner brake pad has the wear indicator. On front brakes, connect the anti-rattle springs to the pads.

    10

    Retract the piston in a rear caliper by turning it clockwise with needle-nose pliers or a special tool from an auto parts store

    11

    Swing the brake caliper back into place, then replace and tighten the mounting bolt.

    12

    Reinstall the wheels and lower the car.

    13

    Fill the brake master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.

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Peugeot 308 DIY Oil and Oil Filter Change

Not everybody knows exactly where the oil filter cartridge housing is located.

It is actually hidden underneath air intake flexible hose.
03
In order to locate the oil filter cartridge housing the resonator must be removed first (after detaching it from the flexible air hose).
04
After removing the resonator lift up the flexible hose to locate where the oil filter housing is.


Items and tools required for oil and oil filter change.
The oil filter cartridge housing can be removed with 27mm socket wrench. Oil drain plug needs 8mm allen key (not shown).

Fresh oil filter cartridge in its housing.

For those who have never DIY engine oil change please follow step-by-step procedures HERE.

How to reset Service Indicator
After changing the oil and oil filter the service indicator must be reset as fallows...
1. Turn off the ignition
2. Push-and-hold trip-meter reset button.
3. Still pushing the trip-meter reset button turn on the ignition (do not start the engine)
4. On the display will appear count down from 10 to 0
5. After the display read 0 the service indicator (spanner icon) will disappear.
6 Switch off the ignition.
7. Done!
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Sunday, April 26, 2015

Tips to Help You Car Last Longer

Buying a new car today can be really expensive. Therefore, getting the most out of the car you already have may be your best option. Here are some of the simple tips to help make that possible.

1) Check the manual to find out what type of gasoline is recommended then stick with that type of fuel. Filling your car with regular gas when it calls for premium it can cause your engine to start knocking and this will destroy the engine. Filling your car with premium gasoline when it calls for regular grade you not only waste gas and money but it can cause problems as well.

2) Dont let your gas drop below a quarter-tank if the car has a fuel injection system. When turning corners you can interrupt the flow of fuel causing pump problems.

3) Replace your fuel filter every 10,000 mile or two year which ever comes later. Keeping the fuel clean helps to maintain long engine life.

4) Take it easy and drive smoothly. Flooring the gas to leap ahead and slamming on the breaks to a screeching halt will put wear and tear on the engine, transmission, suspension and brakes.

5) Let your car warm up before taking off and especially before turning on the air conditioner and heat or you will cause unnecessary engine wear.

6) Remember to keep the oil changed. Changing your oil every 3,000 miles or three months whichever comes first.

7) Switching to synthetic oil will offer superior protection for your car. Although it is more expensive it offers longer protection for your car some up to 12,000 miles.

8) Do not use oil additives. They dont reduce the wear on your engine and they dont boost performance.

9) Change your brake fluid every two years or 24,000 miles. If you have anti-lock brake system you should change it once a year.

10) Power steeling fluid should be changed every three years or 30,000 miles whichever comes first.

11) Keep an eye on the anti-freeze. It keeps your car running strong especially in cold weather. It also prevents rust and corrosion. For the best results use 50-50 anti-freeze-water mix using distill water not tap water. Change it every two years or 24,000 miles.

12) Replacing the battery six months before it is due to expire. A weak battery will cause alternator and starter problems.

13) Replace timing belts every 60,000 miles.

14) Turning your air conditioner, your heater and defroster on and running them for a few minutes every two weeks to keep them clog-free.

15) Protection for your car during extreme weather to prevent weather damage. Using a windshield cover to help protect the dashboard and prevent weather damage. Use silicone spray a couple times a year to help protect the weather stripping and rubber surfaces.

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How to Change Front Brake Pads on a Mazda MPV

The Mazda Multi-Purpose Vehicle, or MPV, was a minivan manufactured with a hydraulic caliper and pad front brake design, which occasionally requires maintenance. The twin pads on either side will wear down their friction material, and they should be replaced in unison. The average backyard mechanic can replace the pads for one brake in about 30 minutes.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the MPV onto the jack stands with the floor jack, placing each stand onto the frame rails. Do not place the stands onto the engine mounts or suspension parts.

    2

    Remove the front wheels by turning the lug nuts in a counterclockwise direction. Set the wheels aside, away from the van.

    3

    Remove the caliper by turning the rear caliper mount bolts in a counterclockwise direction, then sliding the caliper off the rotor.

    4

    Pull the pads from the caliper pistons and replace them with fresh units. The pads are not secured to the caliper pistons, and the new pads should just be pressed into position.

    5

    Slide the caliper and pads back onto the rotor, then secure the rear caliper mount bolts by turning them in a clockwise direction.

    6

    Repeat steps 3 through 5 for the opposite sides brake.

    7

    Replace the wheels by turning their lug nuts in a clockwise direction, in an alternating pattern.

    8

    Lower the van from the jack stands with the floor jack.

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How to Install Rear Glass on a 1968 Mustang

If the rear glass on your 1968 Mustang becomes damaged, it can not only reduce visibility when looking out of your back window, but also put your vehicle at risk of being stolen. Replacing your rear window is a relatively simple process which will take between one and two hours to complete. You can buy the replacement glass, parts and the tools you will need for the job from your local auto parts store.

Instructions

    1

    Use a sharp blade to remove the weatherstripping trim from around the edge of the Mustang rear window. Make an initial slit in the bottom of the trim and work your way around the edge cutting away the rest of the trim. Discard the trim in the trash.

    2

    Carefully press the rear windshield away from the frame of your Mustang. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from broken glass. Have someone stand outside the vehicle to help you lift the windshield from the frame.

    3

    Use a cloth to wipe away all of the excess caulk left on the frame of the window. Install new weatherstripping into the window frame.

    4

    Apply a layer of windshield urethane caulk around the edge of the new glass panel using a caulk gun. Lift the windshield into the weatherstripping and frame. Press the edges against the frame so that a seal sets in place.

    5

    Wait a few hours to allow the seal to firmly set in place. Clean the rear window glass with a cloth to ensure full visibility.

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Saturday, April 25, 2015

Thanks God! Peugeot is a French Car

Can someone imagine "WHAT IF" Peugeot 308 THP is a Japanese car? Probably on the back or around the car one will find stickers, badges and emblems of any combination of the following letters/words...

1.6E . DOHC . 16v . VVT . Multi-Point Pgm FI . Twin-Scroll Turbo Intercooler . 4AT Adaptive . Tiptronic . ABS . EBD . ESP . ASR . DSC . 6 AirBags . Dual-Zone Digital Climate Control . Car of the Year . International Engine of the Year. bla...bla...bla...

Thanks God! Apart from the word "PEUGEOT" and the lion emblems there is only one sweet and simple looking badge, "308". Dalam pada itu pun nampak sangat tidak kena pada tempatnya apabila Nasim tampal "NAZA" dan "Turbo" berhampiran dengan "308" badge - looks too crowded there.

I think 99% of the owners have already removed or relocated them. Ive relocated the "Turbo" badge on to the grille just in front of the intercooler.


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How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2006 Civic

Honda has sold the Civic since the 1973 model year. For the first 11 years of its lifespan, the Civic was only known as an economical car with plenty of room. In 1985, Honda used the Si badge for the first time on the Civic; the lucky recipient was the Civic CRX. The 1985 CRX Si model produced the most power ever (90 horsepower) by a Civic. The 2006 model year Civic had three engines as available options, all of which had a displacement of 1.6 liters. Replacing the front brake pads yourself on a 2006 Civic can save you money.

Instructions

    1

    Remove fluid from the brake master cylinder with a turkey baster until it is only half-full. Transfer this fluid to a small container. Leave the lid off the master cylinder.

    2

    Loosen the front lug nuts, but dont remove them. Raise the front of the Civic with a floor jack. Position jack stands under the subframe and lower the Civic until only the jack stands support its weight. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheels off the vehicle.

    3

    Place an 8-inch C-clamp on the brake caliper. Position the screw part of the clamp to touch the outer brake pad and the fixed part to touch the rear of the caliper. Tighten the C-clamp until the clamp no longer tightens -- this compresses the caliper piston. Remove the C-clamp.

    4

    Remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper, using a ratchet and socket. Pull the caliper from the caliper bracket and hang it from a nearby suspension component, using a bungee strap.

    5

    Pull the brake pads from the caliper bracket. Remove the two bolts at the rear of the caliper bracket with a ratchet and socket. Pull the caliper bracket from the vehicle.

    6

    Loosen the two screws in the center of the rotor, using a Phillips screwdriver. If the screws do not come out easily, tap the head of each screw with a ball-peen hammer to free them. Pull the rotor from the vehicle. If the rotor is stuck to the vehicle, tap the rotor with a rubber mallet to free it.

    7

    Close the micrometer jaws and press the "Reset" button to calibrate it. Measure the thickness of the disc part of the rotor in four places with the micrometer. Make note of the thinnest measurement.

    8

    Check the rotor for any defects, like: hot spots, gouging or mirror-like shine. If these imperfections exist, resurface or replace the rotor. Have the rotor resurfaced by a professional if its thinnest measurement is 0.750 inches or thicker. If the rotor is thinner than 0.750 inches, replace the rotor.

    9

    Replace the rotor, no matter its condition, if it measures thinner than the discard specification stamped on the middle of the rotor. If the rotor is above the discard specification and no defects exist, leave it as is.

    10

    Install the new, resurfaced or original rotor on the Civic. Tighten the two screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

    11

    Clean the metal shims on the caliper bracket with a wire brush. Reinstall the caliper bracket on the Civic and tighten the bolts to 81 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

    12

    Apply a thin coat of disc brake grease to the metal shims in the caliper bracket and the rear of the new pads. Slide the pads into the caliper bracket.

    13

    Place the caliper over the brake pads and tighten the caliper bolts to 36 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

    14

    Repeat Steps 3 through 13 for the other side of the Civic.

    15

    Reinstall the front wheels on the Civic and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Raise the Honda from the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the Civic to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, to 80 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

    16

    Press and release the brake pedal until the pedal feels firm when pressed. This extends the caliper piston back out to the brake pads.

    17

    Check the fluid in the brake master cylinder and add new DOT 3 brake fluid until the level reaches the "Max" line on the reservoir. Close the reservoir lid.

    18

    Take the old brake fluid in the small container to a used automotive fluid recycling center. Many auto parts stores perform this task free of charge.

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New Peugeot 308 GT

The NEW Peugeot 308 GT will be launched in winter 2014, according to company insiders.


The 308 GT is likely to use the 1.6-litre turbo engine from the 208 GTi - produces 197bhp and 275Nm of torque and should take the 308 from 0-100km/hr in less than 7.5 seconds and a top speed of not less than 225km/hr.


The diesel version will also be available and set to be a tuned version of the new 2.0-litre BlueHDi engine with around 185bhp and 400Nm of torque.

Hot hatch fans will have to wait for next year for a full-blown 308 GTi. That car - which could in fact be called the 308 R, after 2013s concept car (as shown below) - will be developed by the new Peugeot Sport division, which is responsible for the widely praised RCZ R

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